Climbing-specific fitness profile predicts performance in recreational climbers

Gonçalves, Thiago Correa Porto; Exel, Juliana; Gaspari, Arthur Fernandes; Padovan-Neto, Fernando Eduardo; Puggina, Enrico Fuini

doi:10.1590/1980-0037.2025v27e96422

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original article • Rev. bras. cineantropom. desempenho hum. 27 • 2025 • https://doi.org/10.1590/1980-0037.2025v27e96422 linkcopy

Climbing-specific fitness profile predicts performance in recreational climbers

Perfil de condicionamento físico específico para escalada prevê desempenho em escaladores recreativos

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Climbing performance is closely associated with finger flexor strength and endurance. Given the growing popularity of climbing, providing coaches with reliable reference values is essential for optimizing training prescriptions for recreational climbers. This study evaluated the isometric strength and endurance of finger flexors in recreational climbers of different ability levels and investigated their relationship with climbing performance. A total of 126 male participants (30 non-climbers, 30 low-grade, 36 intermediate, and 30 advanced) were assessed according to the IRCRA scale. Measurements included maximum hanging time on a 25 mm ledge, hand grip strength, pinch strength, and body composition. Maximum hanging time showed significant differences between groups and a strong correlation with climbing performance (r = 0.72), as did climbing experience (r = 0.70). Relative handgrip and pinch strength (normalized to body mass) showed moderate correlations with sport climbing (r = 0.41) and bouldering (r = 0.48). Maximum hanging time emerged as a robust objective marker for distinguishing ability levels and monitoring finger flexor adaptations in recreational climbers.

Key words:
Hand grip strength; Physical endurance; Pinch strength

Groups	Non Climber n = 30	Low Grade	Intermediate	Advanced
Male (n)	Non Climber n = 30	n = 30	n = 36	n = 30
Redpoint performance
Lead Climbing (IRCRA)	-	11.9 ± 0.1	16.7 ± 1.5b	21.4 ± 1.0^bc
Bouldering (IRCRA)	-	13.5 ± 1.7	17.8 ± 2.0^b	22.1 ± 2.5^bc
Experience
Climbing (years)	-	2.5 ± 2.3	6.9 ± 6.8^b	9.9 ± 4.9^b
Body composition
Body mass (kg)	74.5 ± 11.6	70.9 ± 9.6	69.0 ± 9.6	65.4 ± 6.8^a
Body fat (%)	20.5 ± 5.3	15.9 ± 6.1a	14.3 ± 4.3^a	12.5 ± 3.7^a
Lean mass (%)	39.3 ± 3.3	41.6 ± 4.6	41.6 ± 3.9	43.52 ± 2.7^a
Strength
Hand strength (Kgf)	42.1 ± 10.7	46.08 ± 8.0	49.19 ± 10.5^a	49.65 ± 6.1^a
Pinch strength (kgf)	8.65 ± 1.8	9.51 ± 1.7	10.78 ± 2.1^a	11.07 ± 1.8^ab
Hand strength/body mass (kgf/kg)	0.56 ± 0.11	0.65 ± 0.10^a	0.71 ± 0.12^a	0.76 ± 0.17^ab
Pinch strength/body mass (kgf/kg)	0.11 ± 0.02	0.13 ± 0.02^a	0.15 ± 0.02^ab	0.17 ± 0.03^ab
Maximum hanging time (s)	6.51 ± 4.2	23.23 ± 12.5^a	41.66 ± 12.6^ab	58.77 ± 18.2^abc

	Sport Climb		Boulder
	r	p	r	p
Anthropometrics
Body mass (kg)	-0.25	0.01**	-0.25	0.01*
Body fat (%)	-0.22	0.02*	-0.26	< .001***
Lean mass (%)	0.17	0.08	0.24	0.01*
Experience
Climbing (years)	0.70	<.001***	0.65	0.02*
Strength
Hand strength (kgf)	0.21	0.03*	0.29	<.001***
Pinch strength (kgf)	0.38	<.001***	0.49	<.001***
Hand strength/body mass (kgf/kg)	0.41	<.001***	0.41	<.001***
Pinch strength/body mass (kgf/kg)	0.48	<.001***	0.50	<.001***
Maximum hanging time (s)	0.72	<.001***	0.71	<.001***

	Sport Climb			Boulder
	R²	Standard error	p	R²	Standard error	p
Anthropometrics
Body mass (kg)	0.06	3.01	0.01*	0.06	3.01	0.01*
Body fat (%)	0.06	1.19	0.01*	1.19	1.19	0.02*
Lean mass (%)	0.03	4.31	0.06	0.05	4.27	0.01*
Experience
Climbing (years)	0.26	2.25	<.001***	0.21	2.48	<.001***
Strength
Hand strength (kgf)	0.04	3.75	0.03*	0.05	3.97	0.02*
Pinch strength (kgf)	0.13	1.99	<.001***	0.14	1.98	<.001***
Hand strength/Body mass (kgf/kg)	0.17	2.19	<.001***	0.22	2.13	<.001***
Pinch strength/Body mass (kgf/kg)	0.23	1.75	<.001***	0.25	1.72	<.001***
Maximum hanging time (s)	0.50	6.34	<.001***	0.52	6.62	<.001***

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[1] Note. Data are in mean and standard deviation; Tukey’s post-hoc; ^a Shows the group is significantly different (p < 0.05) from control group; ^b Shows the group is significantly different (p < 0.05) from the low grade; ^c Shows the group is significantly different (p < 0.05) from the intermediate.